THE MITOCHONDRIAL DISEASE EXPERIENCE
First Holiday As A Deaf Person
I have travelled to America 3 times on my own, it can be stressful but I like the freedom, I like doing what I want. The last time I left the UK was in 2018 (with Bex, who moved to France in between lockdowns). I was meant to go to Montpellier, to see Bex 2 years ago, but the Job Centre wouldn’t let me leave the country. In those 2 years Bex has been engaged and married, I have had back surgery, relearned to walk and lost my hearing. Last week I finally went to France, but I had to get there on my own…
Day 1
I checked the door was locked several times before 2 trams to the station, then 2 trains to Manchester airport. I love airports, they are like a mini to-do list where it’s ok not to “live in the moment”, better stuff is ahead. Once you are there it’s almost impossible to miss your flight, even harder to get on the wrong plane. The only challenge that being deaf brings is being questioned, thankfully the airlines offer support (even Ryanair!). This flight cost £20!
I arrived at the airport about 2 and a half hours before the flight and found Ryanair’s terminal where their support team was located. I had pre-written who I was, flight details and that I was deaf (they knew this anyway but y’know, I’m used to dealing with the NHS admin…). After checking me in they walked me through the bag checking area then dropped me off in the departure lounge (and a cafe with discounted coffee (caramel latte for £2.15!)) where another team looked after me. An hour before the flight they took me to the gate then boarded the plane at the back, before anybody else. The air hostess wrote on my phone to buzz them if I wanted anything before they did the safety instructions, which are basically sign language. I regretted not bringing anything to read, flights are usually a podcast time… but I was blessed to have the row of seats just for me.
After landing in Carcassonne a buggy was waiting to take me to arrivals, checked my face matched the one in the passport they let me go, Bex and Rup were waiting on the other side.
They said we were going for a drink at a castle, my expectations were low, a can next to some ruin or at the most, a little pub by some building that looked like a castle in the old times. We arrived at Carcassonne, this huge, well-kept castle with animals, shops, bars and restaurants. I was fresh into France and now I’m dealing with this huge village/castle with tourists. It was hard to know what was authentic and what was for the €€€.
Then we hit the road home, Montpellier and an hour later we arrived at the flat, watched Man City v Madrid (Bex and Rup aren’t into football but they got involved). Sleeping was hard with my over-stimulated brain.
Day 2
Woke up at about 10 (9 in UK) after a restless sleep and Bex served up a French cliche breakfast (y’know, croissants, pain au chocolat and “French” bread), enjoyed on the balcony with an amazing view..
Rup dropped us off in “town” and we went to Faim, a fancy restaurant (3 courses for €20!) which was 10/10 and started on the wine.
Spent the next few hours wandering around the little roads, popping into shops and taking coffee/beer stops. The only real tourist thing was when we popped on this little train for a tour which was a bit weak.
Rup met us at a gallery bar before going for small plates and wine in a hipster bar which was packed, on a Thursday night, I am into this culture.
Day 3
It has been warm but today started hot, a slow day, not hungover but we were slow, just hanging around the flat before having a mid-afternoon picnic in the the grounds of a local chateau. Basically eating more good bread, cheese and meat.
After consuming next-level eclairs we drove to gentrified Montpellier, a bit like home, but fancier. Had a walk by the river with street art and new builds before going to Halles Du Lez which was a bit of a street food complex with an indoor food hall, rooftop restaurants, outdoor bars, vintage shops and salons.
It was pretty quiet when we arrived at 6ish but packed by the time we left a few hours later, after urchins and oysters then an average burger, the worst bread, cheese and meat combo I’ve had here (not bad but the standards have been high). We had an early night, wasn’t tired but my brain appreciated the silence.
Day 4
Another blue sky morning, perfect for breakfast on the balcony before going to the farmers market in town. It was full of local people buying local produce (and books, a lot of book stalls). After a coffee stop we (obvs) picked up some bread, meat and cheese then drove to Palavas, a beach town. I hadn’t seen the sea in years so it was a moment.
The weather was perfect, the beach was lovely, not too busy. After a few hours we headed into Palavas for a drink. It had been a high-brow morning so we lowered the standards and went to the tackiest cocktail bar with leopard print settees, huge teddies, everyone in there had an Essex look.
The menu had short drinks and long drinks, we expected a long drink to be a cocktail, it was a massive jug of juice and a splash of booze. We shared an ice cream, too, also massive, with a side of candy floss, obviously.
At night we had a decent pizza delivery with a side of good wine.
Day 5
After doing things 4 days in a row we were all feeling it and Sunday didn’t really start until mid afternoon when we went to see more water, this time Lac Du Salagou, a man made lake.
It was very impressive, the views of the mountains, the colour of the water (turquoise) and its size. The sun was out but the wind was making it cold so after a picnic (bread, cheese, meat and wine, a culture I don’t want to leave in France) we went for a drive with great views of the lake, the mountains and vineyards.
If this was England we would have driven passed a dozen country pubs but we just saw one in one of the little villages by the lake so we had a half before driving back. An hour of silence was needed before the final meal.
Day 6
Some days I wake up at 6 and feel wide awake but when my alarm clock went off at 7 for my last morning in France I just wanted to sleep. After a coffee, a shower and a goodbye hug with Bex, Rup drove me to the airport, about 40 minutes from the flat.
Ryanair set the standards high when it came to assisting me, they couldn’t have made it any easier, but I was flying back with British Airways, they come with expectations. Rup came into the airport with me, Ryanair had their own assistance office in Manchester departures, the situation wasn’t the same in Montpellier, there was just an airport info office, Rup spoke to them (in French), it was all a bit unclear. They told me to check in, I had already done that online, I had my boarding pass on my phone, it is 2024.
I was then told to sit on a chair and wait for someone to collect me, it was like they didn’t know I was coming (I had requested the help online). About an hour before my flight someone, who couldn’t read English did come and walked me through security then just left me at the gate.
20 minutes later he came back and take me to board the plane, none of the BA staff tried to communicate with me like the Ryanair did. They knew they had a deaf person aboard, they should have ensured I understood the safety situation, they didn’t. But everyone got a free bag of biscuits so swings and roundabouts. I think there was free tea and coffee but the hostess’ were talking to me…
I waited until everyone was off the plane, to see if someone was coming to collect me but nobody came from the back door. When I was getting off the plane I could see someone from the airport asking the air hostess something, not sure if I lipped read, or just guessed they were looking for me, they were, the air hostess didn’t have a clue. She was great, popped on a buggy to the special assistance passport check area then dropped me off at the train station and a grey, cold London. First deaf holiday finished.
*Some photos by Bex and Rup
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